Chef Jun Tanaka dishes on Salisterra

You had to open the restaurant virtually due to travel restrictions. What was that like? 

We had to create a new way of working. We developed a presentation for each dish — the recipe, a photo of the finished dish, step-by-step instructions with photos, and even videos for more complicated recipes so the staff in Hong Kong could execute.

And then, for nearly five months before opening, we all practised the recipes over and over, regularly checking in on Zoom to provide feedback and talk through problems. Chris Czerwinski, Salisterra’s Chef de Cuisine, and I went through every single dish together to make sure they were just right.

You’re classically trained and have worked with top French chefs. Where does your technique shine? 

Sauces add depth of flavour and are the foundation of classic French cuisine; you can see this in our dishes too. Take our osso bucco tortellini: osso buco is a classic, hearty dish from Italy — usually, a big, braised piece of veal shin served with saffron risotto or tagliatelle.

We’ve braised the veal the French way, using chicken and veal stock with Madeira in there for sweetness and white wine for slight acidity. Then we take the osso bucco, add a brunoise of vegetables, and reduce the sauce down to intensify the flavour. Next, we use that mixture to fill tortellini, so you have all the flavours of the traditional dish packaged in each tiny parcel.

Which dish really pays homage to the name Salisterra?

The Patagonian toothfish is a perfect example. It's encased in a bright green salt crust that’s infused with four different herbs, salt and flour, then baked. While it’s cooking, the fish absorbs all the flavours of the herbs and the salt, and then we serve that with a very simple salad, pickled daikon and shredded asparagus.

How does Salisterra embrace sustainability?

The main thing is that we feature a lot of vegetables and seasonal produce. We actually have more plant-based, vegetarian and vegan dishes on the menu than we have fish or meat, which is important. Within the restaurant, we have a Belu water filtration system and we don’t use any plastic bottles. The hotel also has a fresh herb garden where we grow all our rosemary, mint, lemon balm, basil, dill and parsley, which all feature heavily on the menu.

If you could dine at Salisterra tonight, what would you order?

I’d definitely start with the homemade focaccia and the panisse — a chickpea fritter from the south of France — with anchovies. Next, I’d have the panzanella, which is a traditional Italian salad that’s normally made from leftover bread. We use fresh, crunchy focaccia croutons mixed with tomatoes, pickled cucumber and onions and finished with some fromage frais, like herb-flavoured creamy cheese.

For pasta, I’d choose the langoustine ravioli — my favourite dish on the menu. We marinate the langoustine in shio koji, fermented rice, for 24 hours. The sauce is made from langoustine shells and finished with fresh tomato juice, which brings out the freshness. And then we serve that with broad beans and dried Datterini tomatoes — it’s a bowl of umami flavours.

As a main, I’d have the grilled Te Mana lamb, which we marinate in black olive tapenade and serve with char-grilled, tender-stem broccolini. I also love our crispy FOMO potatoes (you can’t miss out on them!) and chargrilled cauliflower. And to finish I’d have the Brillat-Savarin cherry cheesecake with Sicilian pistachio and cherry sorbet. I’m a big fan of cheesecake!

And who would you take with you, assuming you’re willing to share?

I’d take my wife, for sure! I hope we can travel soon to experience the super elegant environment, incredible views, warm Mediterranean colours and famous Upper House service.